Three days in Seville, planned around how the city really lives.

08:45 Real Alcázar, first slot. Two hours inside, most of it in the gardens.

11:30 Cathedral and Giralda. Climb the ramp, then step out into the Patio de los Naranjos to cool down.

14:00 Lunch in the Arenal, near the bullring. Slower, less touristed, better fish than Santa Cruz.

17:30 Plaza de España and Parque de María Luisa as the light turns.

21:00 Dinner around Plaza del Salvador or Calle Mateos Gago, then a walk through empty Santa Cruz.

09:30 Cross the Puente de Isabel II into Triana. Mercado de Triana first, coffee at the bar inside.

10:30 Ceramics workshops on Calle Alfarería and San Jorge — the trade that built the neighbourhood.

13:00 Tapas along Calle Betis, then the riverside walk back toward the Torre del Oro.

17:00 Siesta. Genuinely. The city does it for a reason.

21:30 Flamenco in Triana, where it is identity rather than a show, followed by a late glass by the river.

10:00 Alameda de Hércules, Calle Feria and the Thursday street market if the day lines up.

12:00 Casa de Pilatos — the palace most visitors skip, and often the one they remember.

14:30 A long lunch. No plan afterwards; that is the point.

19:00 Setas de Sevilla for the rooftop at golden hour, then dinner wherever the evening pulls you.

June to September: move everything outdoors before 12:00 and after 19:00, and put museums and palaces in the middle of the day.

November to February: the light is short but the city is empty and the orange trees are heavy. Start later, finish later.

Most transatlantic routes land in Madrid; the train from Madrid to Seville takes about two and a half hours and is far easier than a connecting flight.

From London, Manchester, Dublin or Amsterdam there are direct flights into Seville airport, twenty minutes from the centre by taxi.

Jet lag works in your favour here: waking early is exactly what this city rewards.