The Journal
Postcards from the Guadalquivir
Notes on history, culture and the corners of Seville the guidebooks miss.

Gastronomy · October 2026 · 8 min read
The Birth of Tapas: How a Lid on a Glass Became Seville's Way of Life
Wind, dust, flies and a clever tavern keeper — the Sevillian story of how a simple cover over a glass of wine became the tapa, and then the tapeo.
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History & trade · 16/10/2026 · 8 min read
The Real de a Ocho: The Spanish Silver Coin That Became the First Global Currency
Before the dollar, there was a Spanish silver coin. Johnny Candela follows the Real de a Ocho from American mines to Seville's river, Manila, China and the birth of the $ sign.
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Culture · 12/10/2026 · 9 min read
Operas Set in Seville: Why Carmen, Figaro & Don Juan Live Here
More than 150 operas unfold in a city that produces none of them. Bizet, Rossini and Mozart all chose Seville — because here, the streets themselves sing.
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History & identity · 06/10/2026 · 7 min read
The NO8DO Enigma: Meaning & History of Seville's Secret Symbol
Four letters, a skein of wool and a story of loyalty. Johnny Candela decodes Seville’s NO8DO motto, from the legend of Alfonso X to the streets we walk today.
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Culture · 05/10/2026 · 7 min read
The Bitter Oranges of Seville: History, Marmalade & Living Trees
Too bitter for your breakfast juice, perfect for a city's memory. A story of Andalusi gardens, British marmalade and the spring perfume we call azahar.
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History · September 2026 · 9 min read
The Legend of Susona: Seville's Tragic Jewish Quarter Mystery
A ceramic skull on a quiet street in Santa Cruz, a conspiracy in 1481, and a woman who condemned herself for love.
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Culture · August 2026 · 12 min read
Triana Ceramics: Fire, Clay & the Living Tile Heritage of Seville
Centuries of craftsmanship, identity and artistry in Seville's most iconic neighbourhood — from river clay to the tiles that name our streets.
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Culture · July 2026 · 10 min read
The Lamborghini Connection: Why the Supercars Are Named After Seville Bulls
How a supercar brand born in Sant'Agata became inseparable from the mythology of the Spanish bull — and why its soul leads straight to Seville.
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History · July 2026 · 9 min read
When Vikings Sailed Seville: The Guadalquivir Raid of 844
The forgotten siege of 844 AD — when Nordic drakkars sailed into the heart of Umayyad Isbiliya and changed the river forever.
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Culture · May 2026 · 16 min read
Flamenco in Triana: The Cradle, History & Soul of Seville's Art
A journey through the living anatomy of flamenco — from the fraguas of Triana to the global stages of today.
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History · April 2026 · 14 min read
Magellan’s First Voyage: How the World Was Circumnavigated from Seville
From Seville to Seville, 1519–1522 — 237 men, five ships, and the manuscript that changed humanity's perception of the universe.
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Culture · March 2026 · 18 min read
Semana Santa & Feria: A Local’s Guide to Seville's Spring Festivals
Two festivals. Two opposing aesthetics. One holistic identity — the shadows and the spirit, the light and the flesh.
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