A private Seville food tour, in the bars I actually use.

We move between three or four bars, standing where locals stand, ordering in rounds the way it is done here.

Every stop has a reason: a family kitchen, a dish with four hundred years behind it, a counter my father used before me.

Drinks are part of it — manzanilla, fino, vermut, a cold caña at the right moment.

Espinacas con garbanzos, carrillada, pescaíto frito, salmorejo, jamón ibérico and whatever the market gave the kitchen that morning.

Portions are shared, so you taste widely rather than filling up on the first stop.

Vegetarian, pescatarian and allergy-aware routes are planned in advance when you tell me.

The Triana food experience crosses the river into my own neighbourhood — fish, ceramics, flamenco and bars with no menu in English.

The Seville food experience stays on the city side, weaving between the Arenal, the centre and the Alameda.

Both are private, both last three hours, and both end with you knowing where to go for the rest of your trip.